Tirthan and Jibhi tour from Kangra

About 230 km from Kangra, seven hours or so, via Mandi and Aut. You leave the Manali highway at the Aut tunnel and turn up into the Banjar valley — that turn is where the crowds stop and the quiet starts.

They are neighbouring valleys about 15 km apart. Tirthan follows the trout river toward the Great Himalayan National Park gate at Gushaini and is the greener, more riverside of the two. Jibhi sits higher on the road to Jalori Pass, with the waterfall, the wooden bridges and easier access to Serolsar. Many people stay in one and day-trip the other.

No. At 3,120 m it usually closes with the winter snow, roughly December to March, and reopens once it is cleared. From the top it is a gentle 5 km walk to Serolsar lake, or a shorter steep climb to Raghupur fort. We check the pass status before your dates rather than driving you up to a barrier.

Yes, from the Gushaini gate, with an entry permit and a registered guide for anything beyond the ecozone. Day walks into the buffer are straightforward. Serious treks inside the core need several days and should be planned well ahead. We drop you at the gate and pick you up.

It is one of the reasons people come. Angling needs a state fisheries permit, arranged locally, and most stretches are catch-and-release. Several riverside guesthouses will sort the permit and tackle if you ask when booking.

Sometimes, and sometimes not. It closes under heavy snow anywhere between January and March and there is no fixed reopening date. When it is shut the valley is still lovely and we swap the pass day for Tirthan and the Great Himalayan National Park gate. We check the road before setting off.